ThunderEnlightening Articles
Please excuse the disorganization of this
page while it is under construction. We are in the process of adding our
ThunderEnlightening technical articles to this site.
P.S. If you have any good technical articles
which you would like to submit to our newsletter or this page, please forward
them to sales@classictbird.com
1957 FORD THUNDERBIRD FRAME DIMENSIONS: A - 7 9/16 - Bottom inside edge
of cross member tube to datum line. B - 38 1/16 - Rear edge of hole to rear
lower outer tip of side rail. C - 54 3/4 - Center of rear spring front bolt
to center of spring hanger bushing. D - 63 5/16 - Center of rear spring
front bolt to rear lower outer tip of side rail. E - 36 3/8 - Rear edge
of front bumper hole to edge of indicated hole.
F - 40 3/4 - Front lower outer tip of side rail to edge of indicated hole.
G - 10 11/16 - Bottom inside edge of crossmember tube to datum line. H -
27 1/2 - Center of rear bolt that attaches ball joint at lower control arm
to edge of hole under body support bracket. I - 74 15/16 - Rear edge of
crossmember hole to front bottom outer edge of spring hanger. J - 98 1/8
- Rear edge of crossmember hole to front bottom outer edge of spring hanger.
K - 19 1/4 - Rear outside edge of cross member tube to edge of hole. X -
Location for the mounting of #2 and #3 datum gauges, measure from the bottom
edge of side rail reinforcing bar to sighting pins. * - Indicates location
of 3/16 holes for mounting the rubber floorpan bumpers.
'57 FRAME SPECIFICATIONS
We recently ran across some frame straightening specs for the ’57
T-Bird frame. We’re hoping your frame won’t need to be adjusted
but if it does hopefully the information given here will help.
Anybody have similar specifications for the ’55 and ’56 frames?
We’d like to pass that along also.
We are also showing the approximate location of the ten rubber floorpan
bumpers. Look for small 3/16" diameter holes in the frame which accept
the bumper retaining clips at the locations marked on the drawing with
an *. TE 10 - October 1997
LEVELING UP YOUR 'BIRD
Is your Bird on the level? Have you wondered if your T-Bird is too high
in the front or possibly too low in the rear? Or too high in the rear? Here
are some dimensions from the specification manuals that should help.
First check your tires for proper pressure then put a couple of people on
the seat totaling approximately 300 lbs. Now you are ready to measure.
Measure from the ground to the center of the headlights in the front and
to the center of the taillights in the rear.
"Proper" according to the spec manuals is as follows:
'55 & '56 Front 28.67"; Rear 22.76". '57 Front 28.07";
Rear 23.30" TE 10 - October 1997
ELECTRICAL LEAKS
Electrical leaks, an unwanted current flow, can occur due to worn or damaged
insulation, corroded connections or excessive dampness. There is nothing
more annoying than jumping into your T-Bird in full anticipation of an enjoyable
drive and finding the battery too low to start the car. If you think you
have an electrical leak that is running down your battery here’s how
to find it:
1) Turn off everything that uses electricity.
2) Remove the battery cable that goes to the starter solenoid from the battery.
3) Connect a multimeter set to measure DC volts between the battery terminal
and the cable. If it reads battery voltage there is leakage.
4) Switch your meter to read DC amps (start on the highest range to prevent
damage to the meter) and measure the current flow. If the reading is 1 amp
or more then quite likely there is something still turned on. Any current
flow between 1 amp and .01amps is a major electrical leak. Less than .01
amps is a minor leak.
5) If a leak is detected first clean the battery terminals, battery top,
and battery cables, then one at a time remove fuses and disconnect wires
until the current drops to zero. When it does you’ve found the source
of your leak. TE 10 - October 1997
SHOP TIPS
* Remove your hubcaps once or twice a year before washing your car. Not
only will you get the wheels clean but you can check the front wheels for
grease leakage from the front wheel cups. This early detection may save
you from serious front wheel bearing problems down the road. Tip from Gary
Minkin, Granada Hills, California. TE 10 - October 1997
* If you are painting a small or odd size part that has a machined surface,
is difficult to mask off, and you don’t want paint on that surface
you can simply cover that surface with a light coat of petroleum jelly or
grease before painting. After the paint dries simply wipe off the machined
areas. Tip from Dennis Shenk, Garrett, Indiana. (We’ve also used this
technique to paint the black and chrome trim plate on the ’55 horn
ring. -editor) TE 10 - October 1997
Steering wheel puller for 1955-1957 T-Birds. Use the plate shown and
2 5/16-24 x 1 1/4" bolts.
* Removing the steering wheel requires a puller to break it free from
the shaft. If you have access to a drill press you can easily make the puller
above to do the job (see sketch).
The 1/2" hole in the center is for clearance for the horn wire. Don’t
skimp here and leave this hole out, unless you remove the horn wire you
will damage it!
Once you have the puller here's the procedure.
1) Disconnect the battery.
2) Remove horn ring - ’55 - 2 screws from behind the wheel; ’56
& ’57 push in & turn counterclockwise.
3) Loosen 15/16" steering wheel retaining nut until it is even with
the top of the threads on the steering shaft.
4) Position steering wheel puller over nut on shaft, make sure puller does
not interfere with horn wire, and install
5/16-24 x 1 1/4 bolts into threads in the steering wheel.
5) Tighten bolts uniformly until the steering wheel breaks free from the
tapered splines on the shaft.
6) Remove bolts, puller, 15/16 nut and steering wheel.
7) To reinstall steering wheel locate key way on shaft and match with keyway
on the wheel, put wheel onto the shaft and install 15/16" nut. Tightening
the nut will re-seat the wheel back onto the shaft. TE 10 - October 1997
Metal cover used to protect the hardtop weatherstripping from the hardtop
hoist straps during storage
* Fred Leth-Steensen from Alamogordo, New Mexico reports that to fully
protect your hardtop weatherstrips install these plates (see drawing) over
the side and rear weatherstrips where the hoist straps will contact. Fred
made his plates from 3/32" thick aluminum, however any thin metal will
work. Fred also recommends covering the top edges with plastic "Dip
& Grip" (normally used to cover hand tools) or a strip of duct
tape. Silicone would work also. TE 10 - October 1997
* T-Birder Tom Woodman of Lincoln, Nebraska reminds us that when tightening
the exhaust manifold bolts be sure to tighten them uniformly and torque
them to the proper 23 - 28 ft. lbs. Failure to tighten uniformly or over
tightening can cause the manifold mounting ears to break off. This is particularly
true if you are using gaskets between the exhaust manifold and the head.
TE 10 - October 1997
TECH TIPS
SEE SMOKE? Smell like rubber burning? Check for exhaust leaks between the
LH exhaust manifold and the down pipe. If the gasket develops a leak the
extremely hot exhaust gases will be blowing directly on the flat rubber
steering column seal (part #3513). Rubber scorching has occurred on your
editor's personal T-bird and we recently heard of this actually causing
the rubber to break into active flame. TE 10 - October 1997
REAR MAIN SEAL REVISITED
Reader Norm Uselton, Richmond, Illinois, said he had installed many rear
main seals and they always leaked. Finally he removed the engine, line bored
the block and turned the crank and he reports that he has been leak free
for two years. He feels that the crank was “jumping around” causing
the seal to fail... TE 10 - October 1997